Mountaineering in Mexico for an Adventure Trip: Routes, Preparation and Safety Tips

Looking for your next big mountaineering adventure? Mexico’s incredible range of mountains, from Sierra Madre ridges to towering volcanoes, is a mountaineer's playground perfect. Reaching those stunning summits requires careful planning and picking the right trail is key. To help you find the perfect path to reach the top, here’s the ultimate guide to Mexico’s highest mountains and their routes.

Top Mountains to Climb

• Pico de Orizaba

• Iztaccihuatl

• Nevado de Toluca

• La Malinche

• Sierra Negra

Routes for Mountaineering on Pico de Orizaba 

Pico de Orizaba, also known as Citlaltépetl, is Mexico’s highest mountain and the third-highest in North America, standing tall at 18,491 feet (5,636 mt). This volcanic peak offers several routes to the summit, each with different challenges, making it accessible for climbers with various fitness levels and mountaineering experience. The main routes are:

Jamapa Glacier Route

Difficulty: Moderate 

The Jamapa Glacier Route is the most popular and accessible path to the summit, ideal for intermediate climbers. Starting from Piedra Grande Hut at 13,976 feet (4,260 mt), cross rocky terrain and scree slopes to reach the glacier on its northwestern side. Because the climb to the summit begins at midnight, crossing rocky patches can be risky, so bring a headlamp and stay close to your guide. After the scree section—known as "the labyrinth," you’ll need to put on crampons and use an ice axe to navigate the snowy sections. This section ends at the Jamapa Glacier at 16,300 feet (4,968 mt), the route’s highlight, where you rope up to begin the final ascent. The slope steepens as you approach the top, so you’ll feel the altitude more intensely. The top can be windy and cold, so wear layers. Try to reach this point by 4 a.m. to catch the sunrise at the summit.  

Ruta Sur

Difficulty: Moderate to Challenging

Start from the Gumar Hut skipping glaciers and climb directly up the southern face. Cross landmarks along the path like metal crosses and a plane crash site at around 17,000 feet (5,180 mt). The final stretch is a straight push to the summit. This route may require an extra day for acclimatization and is a good alternative if you want to avoid glaciers.

Espolón de Oro

Difficulty: Moderate to Challenging

Starting on the Jamapa Glacier Route, this route diverges toward the saddle between the Sarcofago rock formation and the summit. It offers easier walking on snow with fewer technical sections. With Sarcofago always on your right, this path is a great choice if you want variation from the main glacier route.

North Face Route

Difficulty: Challenging

A more technical and demanding option, the North Face Route includes steep icy slopes up to 60-degree inclines. It’s best suited for experienced climbers with strong technical climbing skills and experience with high altitudes.

Serpents Head 

Difficulty: Hard with technical skills

On the west face, this route is the most technical and includes ice climbing sections. If there’s no ice, it becomes a mixed climbing adventure on unstable rock.

Best time to climb Pico de Orizaba

November to March

Routes for Mountaineering on Iztaccihuatl

Iztaccihuatl is Mexico’s third highest mountain at 17,802 feet (5,426 mt) and its main climbing routes are accessible through La Joya in Iztaccihuatl-Popocatepetl National Park. Here’s what to expect on the routes: 

La Arista del Sol

Difficulty: Moderate 

La Arista del Sol, the most popular route, is less technical but still challenging. Starting from La Joya at 13,040 feet (3,975 mt), follow the trail to reach the hut, Refugio del Grupo de los Cien at 15,680 feet (4,780 mt) in about 3.5 hours. Here, you can take a break to gear up with helmets for the scree scrambling ahead. After passing a cross memorial, the trail leads to the Arista del Sol (Ridge of the Sun), followed by Glacier del Vientre along this ridge. Carefully traverse the glacier sections, then prepare for a series of ups, downs, and false summits. This section can be tiring, so be mentally prepared. If you’re lucky, Popocatepetl (Mexico’s second-highest mountain and an active volcano) may cheer you with celebratory ash plumes. The summit has a crater rim with three high points and you can climb all three to ensure you’ve reached the top. Thereafter, prepare for a controlled descent down the same scree path.

Los Portillos route

Difficulty: Moderate 

The Los Portillos route also beginning at the La Joya trailhead route has two main parts. The first section leads to the De Los Cien mountain hut, while the second, more demanding section, climbs to the Panza Glacier and continues to the summit.

Glacier de Ayoloco

Difficulty: Moderate 

From La Joya, take the lower trail past the yellow registration box, which traverses along the hillside down into Tlaltipatango Valley. Head toward "Boca de Tiburon" (the Shark's Mouth rock) and ascend to the ridge's lowest point. Follow a subtle path along the rock wall, crossing streams and staying high to avoid difficult lower trails. Follow the cairns over small ridges to reach a moraine of Ayoloco glaciers. Follow this ridge until Ayoloco Hut at 15,354 feet (4,680 mt). From the hut, follow the moraine crest upward, then go left into the gully that leads to the glacier. On the glacier, take a right-to-left traverse toward the ridge’s low point and continue left to reach the ridge where you can leave backpacks for the final summit ascent. The route follows La Arista del Sol for 656 feet (200 mt) with some scrambling, leading to the summit dome. Alternatively, steeper lines are possible on the glacier’s far right.

Best time to climb Iztaccihuatl 

November to March

Routes for Mountaineering on Nevado de Toluca

Nevado de Toluca is a stratovolcano and the fourth highest peak in Mexico at 13,800 feet (4,200 mt) known for its two beautiful crater lakes—the larger green Lago del Sol (Sun Lake) and the smaller Lago de la Luna (Moon Lake). It's an excellent choice for first-timers because there's direct road access to the trailhead, National Park Hut at 13,287 feet (4,050 mt). From this hut, it takes around 15 minutes to reach the crater.

The western side of the crater rim is a 4-mile (6.4 km) ridge with several rocky peaks. The highest ones are Pico de Fraile 15,390 feet (4,691 mt) and Pico de Aguila 15,157 feet (4,620 mt). You can climb these peaks, hike the entire crater rim, or simply visit the lakes; there are multiple routes with stunning views of Mexico’s tallest peaks on one side and glittering lakes on the other.

Standard Routes 

Difficulty: Easy to Moderate

Northeast Slopes and North Ridge Route: These two standard routes to Pico de Fraile are considered the least technical with steep climb of Class 3 scrambling on the ridge. 

East Ridge: This route is less steep than the Northeast Slopes and North Ridge Route but requires more scrambling and is more technical with Class 3 and 4 sections.

Complete Rim Traverse

Difficulty: Moderate to Challenging

If you are looking for a full-fledged mountaineering expedition, this route will give you a complete alpine feel in Mexico. The hike around Nevado de Toluca, or circling the crater rim, is lengthy, requiring 7-9 hours of climbing up and down over moderate terrain (up to Class 4 scrambling). Since most of the climbing occurs above 13,000 feet (4,000 mt), you need an adequate fitness level.

Starting from the Nevado de Toluca trailhead, you'll reach the crater rim in 10-15 minutes. Start by walking on the right side (clockwise encircling, you can pick either direction) of Laguna del Sol. You’ll gain most of the elevation within about 1.8 miles (3 km) and the next several hours will be spent scrambling up and down along the ridgeline, crossing the highest points. The terrain is rugged, requiring you to find routes through boulders, navigate snow, and traverse loose scree, with Class 2-3 scrambling involved on each of the summits. It takes about 3-3.5 hours from the trailhead to reach the true summit, Pico del Fraile. From this high point, you can either reverse your route or continue to complete the full loop or continue along the ridge, over Pico Burkart and Pico Ordonez, to finally climb up and down Pico de Aguila.

This entire hike offers breathtaking views of the lakes along with the distant views of Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl (Mexico’s second and third-highest volcanoes). Don’t miss the chance to see the Rosas de las Nieves (Snow Roses) along the path, which are found only at high altitudes.

Baal Dream

This route takes you to the summit of a detached pillar on the north side of the crater and is one of the few technical rock climbs on the Mexican Volcanoes.

Best time to climb Nevado de Toluca

November to February

Routes for Mountaineering on La Malinche

Malinche Peak at 14,636 feet (4,461 mt), is the sixth-highest peak in Mexico and a popular choice for training and acclimatization before tackling the tallest mountains in the country. Several routes begin from various trailheads, traversing different faces of the peak including:

Centro Vacacional Route

Difficulty: Moderate

The Centro Vacacional Route is the most popular well-paved trail on the north face, beginning at the Centro Vacacional IMSS Malintzi campsite at 10,000 feet (3,100 mt). The hike follows an old access road for a short distance before winding through a dense pine forest. After about 1.5 hours, exit the treeline for a direct view of La Malinche. The terrain gradually steepens, filled with rocks and loose mud followed by scree. The hike is approximately 7.6 miles long (12.2 km) round trip, taking 7 to 8 hours over moderate terrain. You'll have views of Popocatépetl and Iztaccíhuatl to your right and Pico de Orizaba to your left.

The Ixtenco Route

The Ixtenco Route ascends the east side of the mountain, offering stunning views, but it is longer than the Centro Vacacional route. Start from San Juan Ixtenco to the right of Cerro El Filete peak leading to steep eroded slopes until you arrive at the flat grassy area called 'arenales,' before turning right. From the ranger station, you’ll see a research center after 20 minutes and reach a dry riverbed in another 45 minutes. Remember to turn left before reaching the crater. The hike takes about 3 to 3.5 hours to the rim, and from there, it takes an additional two hours to reach the summit involving scrambling over rocks between two smaller summit peaks.

Others 

Other less popular routes include the Altamira Route (northeast side), Axaltenco Route (south side), and San Isidro/Canoa Route (southwest face). 

Best time to climb La Malinche

The best time to climb La Malinche is during the dry season from November to March. November is ideal with the least crowd. The "Centro Vacacional" is open year-round.

Routes for Mountaineering on Sierra Negra

Sierra Negra at 15,030 feet (4,580 mt) is the fifth-highest peak and is overlooked as it lies next to Mexico's tallest, Pico de Orizaba. The road to the summit for the observatory is restricted so hiking to the top is your best option. To begin your climb of Sierra Negra, you can start from either El Ciudad Serdan or Atzitzintla. This route features a steep ascent taking around 3-4 hours on forested eastern slopes before leading you up the rocky scree near the summit. Alternatively, you can opt for the western slopes, which present a more demanding yet scenic climb with plenty of scrub pines. Once you reach the summit of Sierra Negra, you’ll be treated to stunning views of three prominent volcanoes: Popocatépetl, Iztaccíhuatl, and Malinche with the closest views of the southern slopes of Pico de Orizaba.

Best time to climb Sierra Negra 

November to March

Essential Preparations for Mountaineering in Mexico

1. Physical Fitness

• Build Endurance: High-altitude hiking demands good aerobic endurance to endure the hardships of the tough terrain for multiple days. Engage in activities like walking, running, cycling, and hiking to develop your stamina. 

• Build Muscle Strength: Strength training is vital for navigating rocky sections as rock scrambling requires you to move quickly and maintain stability on rocks. 

• Use the Stairs: Stair climbing is a simple and efficient exercise for physical preparation. Start by walking up and down stairs for 20 minutes, gradually increasing the time and incorporating a loaded backpack to simulate carrying gear on your climb.

• Develop Technical Skills: Familiarize yourself with using crampons and ice axes for snow and ice climbing. Practice self-arrest techniques, learn the necessary knots for roping up, and understand how to navigate crevasses. Use your acclimatization breaks during the hikes to practice these essential skills. Additionally, practice techniques for descending loose mud and scree safely.

• Practice Load Ferry: Go on easy hikes in your neighborhood with a heavy backpack. 

1. Mental Fitness

High-altitude hiking and mountaineering is hard, so prepare yourself for difficult terrain, changing weather conditions, and unexpected situations. Mental preparation is just as crucial as physical training. Scrambling on rocks requires focus, quick decision-making, and heightened responsiveness. Keep your mind clear, ensure you are well-rested, and be ready for the demanding ascents and descents.

1. Prepare with Essential Gear 

• Carry your upper, mid, and inner layers, in addition to rain gear and sun protection. 

• Use trekking poles and helmets for added safety. 

• Wear high-ankle shoes to help prevent ankle sprains while traversing boulders. 

• Ensure you carry enough food and energy bars to stay energized and prevent Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) due to exhaustion. 

• Since most rocky terrains may lack water sources, bring sufficient water, especially for summit attempts. 

1. Prepare for the best time to climb

• Research seasonal weather patterns and choose a period with stable conditions to avoid rain and snow from November to March for mountaineering in Mexico. Aim for times when the trails are less crowded, allowing for a more peaceful adventure. 

• Consider your own fitness level and acclimatization needs. Opt for hiking tours that cover 3-4 peaks with gradually increasing difficulty, allowing ample time for acclimatization. 

• Avoid climbing immediately after fresh snow; wait for it to harden and settle.

• Study the specific mountains and routes you plan to climb, familiarizing yourself with the terrain, weather patterns, permits, and camping restrictions.

Safety Tips for Mountaineering in Mexico

1. Be Informed: Stay updated on any changes regarding the routes, weather conditions, or access regulations so you avoid closed trails, dangerous conditions, or unexpected fees.

2. Have Travel Insurance: Travel insurance is essential for any climbing expedition, as it provides coverage for medical emergencies, trip cancellations, and lost gear.

3. Right Gear Ensure all your equipment is functional and comfortable. Avoid using new gear straight out of the package on the mountain—break it in beforehand to prevent discomfort or malfunctions. 

4. Emergency Self-Rescue: Learn basic self-rescue techniques and carry the necessary equipment, such as a first aid kit and multi-tool. Understand how to respond to various emergencies like falls or severe weather changes. 

5. Be Prepared: Always check the forecast before your climb and prepare for all weather scenarios—carry layered clothing, rain gear, and sun protection to adapt to changing conditions. 

6. Guiding Service: Whenever possible, climb with experienced partners or groups, as they can provide guidance, share knowledge, and enhance safety. Always climb in groups and follow your guide to avoid getting lost.

Why Mexico is the perfect mountaineering destination

Mexico is a fantastic place for mountaineering due to its diverse mountain ranges, including the Sierra Madre and the volcanic peaks which are among the highest in North America. The country offers a wide range of climbing styles, from alpine to rock climbing, catering to all skill levels. With easy access to these high-altitude climbs, it’s simple to gain experience at elevations over 15,000 and 16,000 feet (4,000 mt and 5,000 mt). You can tick off 3-4 high-altitude peaks in just one trip, giving you an incredible push in your mountaineering career. Mexico offers year-round climbing opportunities, especially from November to March when the weather is more stable. The stunning scenery, friendly climbing community, and relatively affordable options further enhance the experience, making it a great destination for mountaineers and hikers. Book Mexico adventure trips now on AdventureTripr.com and explore the best outdoor experiences!

Frequently Asked Questions:

Question 1: How fit do I need to be to climb Pico de Orizaba?

Answer 1:  You should be fit enough to hike for 7-8 hours with a backpack on moderate terrain. It's important to be comfortable traversing tricky rocks, boulders, and scree.

Question 2: Do I need technical climbing skills to climb in Mexico?

Answer 2: Yes, you need to learn the basic use of ice axes and crampons. It's also important to know how to rope up and walk on glaciers, as well as how to self-arrest your fall on snow slopes using an ice axe.

Question 3: How do I acclimatize before climbing any peak in Mexico?

Answer 3: To acclimatize, spend a few days at higher altitudes at Pueblo or at the trailhead before your ascent. This can involve hiking to nearby smaller peaks or spending time at campsites to allow your body to adjust to the lower oxygen levels. You can climb the peaks in order of height to help with acclimatization, gradually preparing your body for the highest elevations. This approach helps you adjust to the changing altitude, build your climbing experience, and adding more summits to your list of achievements.