Chile: From Desert Dunes to Glacial Peaks

Chile: From Desert Dunes to Glacial Peaks

July 15, 2025
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If you'd told me a few weeks ago that I’d be floating in salt lagoons one day, hiking through Mars-like valleys the next, and sipping wine under the stars before heading south to walk among penguins, I’d have said you were dreaming. But that’s exactly what Chile gave us.

We kicked things off in Santiago with a casual walk through the leafy, upscale neighborhood of Vitacura, followed by dinner with friends. The city has that big-city buzz with plenty of history and culture, but also plenty of traffic. I was nursing a nasty cough and congestion, but there was no way I was missing this adventure.

From there, we made our way to Valparaíso. What a contrast! This seaside port is an explosion of color, personality, and art. Every building seems to be wrapped in murals, and you’ll find sleepy cats lounging just about everywhere. It’s hilly, chaotic, charming, and a little gritty. Think San Francisco with more street art and fewer rules. Still feeling under the weather, but Valparaíso had enough life to carry me through.

Then came the desert, specifically, the Atacama. We flew to Calama and drove about 60 miles (100 km) to San Pedro de Atacama, where Andrea, our fantastic local guide, greeted us. Despite a hiccup with our check-in time, Andrea and the local team smoothed everything out, and before noon, we were already exploring Valle de la Luna, or Valley of the Moon. And yeah, the name fits. This place is surreal with towering dunes, salt-crusted rock formations, and the Andes looming in the distance. We hiked along the Duna Mayor and then explored the shimmering salt mines, where spiderweb-like crystal formations catch the light in the most magical way. The day ended at Valle de Marte (Valley of Mars), with a sunset picnic and wine. Not bad for our first full day in the desert.

San Pedro itself is super low-key, almost like a dusty little outpost from a different time. We wandered the town the next morning before heading out to three salty lagoons—two for admiring, one for swimming. Imagine floating effortlessly, like in the Dead Sea, but surrounded by complete silence and the desert. Add a home-cooked Peruvian lunch in a rustic café and you’ve got a perfect blend of surreal and satisfying.

Next up: a 5:00 AM departure to the Tatio Geysers. At over 14,100 ft (4,300 m) and 23°F (-5°C), it was both breathtaking and breath-stealing! Thin air, freezing temps, but totally worth it. Steam vents rising against the dawn sky, vicuñas warming themselves near the geysers, and endless open landscapes made it unforgettable. That night, the desert showed off again with a stargazing session that blew my mind. The sky here is so clear, you can see the Milky Way with the naked eye. I even managed to photograph the Orion Nebula without a tracker. We ended the night with cheese, wine, and our necks craned toward the stars.

Then came a long travel day as we went from the far north of Chile to the deep south. Nearly 1,900 miles (3,000 km) later, we landed in Punta Arenas, ready to start the Patagonia leg of the trip.

Early the next morning, we boarded a boat to Isla Marta. The waves were intense, and getting a clear photo of the noisy sea lion colony was a challenge, but just seeing them in the wild was worth it. Then we moved on to Isla Magdalena, where hundreds of Magellanic penguins waddled around doing their thing, completely unfazed by humans. It was pure joy.

After that, we made our way to Puerto Natales, a charming little town that acts as the launchpad for Torres del Paine National Park. Our introduction to the park came through a scenic drive that felt like a nature documentary on fast-forward… turquoise lakes, snowy peaks, glaciers, and wind so strong (up to 50 mph / 80 kph) we literally had to hold on to each other to stay upright. Along the way, we stopped at waterfalls and the enormous Milodon Cave, once home to early humans and now home to one very large fiberglass sloth replica. We saw guanacos (like llamas, but different), condors, caracaras, eagles, you name it!

One of my favorite moments was hiking to Mirador Cuernos. The “Horns” rise up from the earth like something out of a fantasy novel, perfectly framed by Lake Pehoé’s stunning blue waters. The group couldn’t resist being goofy, taking silly photos in one of the most photogenic spots on the planet. No regrets.

While some of the group tackled the legendary 13.5-mile (22 km) Base of the Towers hike, I took a chill day in Puerto Natales. Explored some local shops, found a cute café, and ended the day with an amazing dinner at Lenga, easily one of the best meals of the trip.

We saved one of the best for last: Grey Glacier. We set out early, catching a Patagonian sunrise so intense it stopped us in our tracks, flaming reds, golds, purples, just stunning. After a short hike to the boat dock on Grey Lake, we boarded a boat, sipped Pisco Sours, and cruised past massive icebergs toward the face of the glacier. The ice was bluer than I imagined possible, glowing in the light. We saw three different faces of the glacier before turning back, completely satisfied.

That night, we had our final group dinner at Lenga, raising a glass to new friends, unforgettable views, and a country that gave us more than we ever expected.

We returned to Santiago for a couple of wind-down days before heading home. Took it easy and visited Plaza de Armas, explored the Pre-Columbian Art Museum, climbed Cerro Santa Lucía, and just let it all sink in.

Chile surprised me again and again. It challenged me with altitude, amazed me with landscapes, and reminded me that some of the best moments come when you lean into the unexpected. If you're even thinking about going, do it. It’s not just a trip; it’s a whole world of contrasts wrapped into one long, skinny slice of Earth. And it’s absolutely worth the journey.

If You Go Trip Length: Plan for at least 10-14 days to fully experience Chile’s diverse regions. Packing: Pack layers and sturdy hiking boots! You’ll go from desert heat to freezing mountain winds. Altitude: Atacama sits high (up to 14,000 ft / 4,300 m), so take it slow, stay hydrated, and give your body time to adjust. Connectivity: Wi-Fi is available in most towns, but remote areas like parts of Patagonia may have limited service. Embrace the digital detox. Book with Confidence: We booked this trip through AdventureTripr and highly recommend them. They handled all the logistics, connected us with amazing local guides, and curated experiences we wouldn’t have found on our own.

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